You need to change 2 things... The gateway and the DHCP start.
They may remain stable until TWC sends the device a firmware update or resets it.
Buy a real modem and seperate router , only way to keep the cable co out of the router.
You are correct in thinking that each number could apply to a separate device on your TWC account. In general you pay a monthly fee for each box connected toTWC Those can include DTAs for analog-only TV sets, DTV set-top converters, DVRs, internet modems, Cablecard DTV sets, or EMTA telephone modems; basically anything that connects to TWC over coaxial cable. If you don't currently have seven connected devices in your home, I suggest that you get the list updated at your earliest convenience.
First, write down the MAC adddress of each device actually on line today at your account service address. It is a 12 digit alpha-numeric string of digits 0 through 9 and letters A thru F, and usually printed on a label on the rear or bottom panel of the data modem. Make sure each of them is on the list.
Next call TWC's local contact number or visit yor local TWC store. Ask the TWC employee to remove all of the wrong modem MAC addresses from your file. Be sure to tell them if at any time a set-top converter, DVR, or modem owned by TWC was replaced during a service call to fix a problem.
The home service tech might have failed to record return of the previous device, or that detail might not have been sent to the billing department. Either way, at some time in the future TWC-->Spectrum may come after you for their boxes (yes, all seven of them!) or payment of the undepreciated capital equipment costs. Obviously if you do still have any TWC-owned 'dead' units, return them and get a written receipt from the TWC store attendant or home service tech who picks them up.
I wouldn't waste money on a 3.1, It appears Spectrum is going backwards rather than forwards in speeds and technology. I don't forsee them ever allowing IpTv on a coam modem and increased speeds will be via FIOS rather than coaxial infrastructure.
Unless you need IPv6 today, or pay for 200/300, your existing modem will operate at 100/10 speeds reliably.
Also, anything with the Motorola name on it is obsolete as Motorola sold off all the Data products to Arris and Casa several years ago. There is tons of junk on ebay and amazon with the old spec sheeets claiming they're xx times better than dial up and dsl, yet they're obsolete and the speeds are theoretical max under lab conditions and in bursts not continuous modes , written well before streaming video and cloud storage were in use or even designed.
Router definitely is a gigabit router (Netgear AC1900 C7000). Your first intuition was correct - one of the wires did not make it all the way to the end of the RJ45. Cut that off, put a new connector on, and am pulling 300+ at each ethernet drop point. Thanks!
One other thought to consider: Did you run a sweep and integrity test on that CAT-6 cable after you installed it? Gigabit requires all four pairs in the cable, while slower speeds use only the first 2 pairs. One single wire not firmly crimped in place in the connector will limit your data speed to 100 Mbps.
So I recently bought my own netgear wifi router.
I want to basically setup my network so that the ISP provided all-in-one garbage is just working as a modem and not a router at all.
If I understand correctly, that means setting the router in "bridged" mode and hooking up my new Netgear router via ethernet to the first port of the new bridged modem?
Just trying to get this right. I hate the wifi on the arris router.
You understand correctly. You'll continue to be charged the TWC monthly modem rental fee, but no surcharge for WiFi service.
In this configuration TWC will not have read or write access to your router's settings.
Let's hope you bought a router with Gigabit WAN and LAN ports, 802.11AC wireless, and multiple external antennas.
After you reset the modem back into bridging mode, Step 2 is to set your router to obtain all startup network settings from the WAN (cable modem's WAN port).
Step 3 is to enable NAT and DHCP in your router. The router IP address from the modem should be assigned as 192.168.1.1 Go into the router setup application and set DHCP to start at 192.168.1.100 If the router then asks for the number of DHCP addresses, the answer is 32.
Ok thanks! I got everything up and working. After putting it into Bridge Mode and then turning off all the WIFI on the Arris, i can now get to the outside. Thank you both for the assistance.
The low-tier HP Envy series of inkjet printers are notorious for dropping their WiFi network connections. These printers have no wired ethernet port, just a 2.4 GHz [only] WiFi radio with rather limited performance and usually a USB2 wired port.
Remember the saying "You snooze, you lose!" When the printer goes to sleep after running a print job, it gives up its DHCP address assignment. Then you have to restart the printer to get it back on the network again.
I recommend that you assign the printer a static IP address on your network and be sure the 2.4 GHz wireless channel of your router is not receiving interference from one of your neighbors. HP's online chat and other experts on this forum can provide guidance on programming the static IP address settings into your printer. My Envy printer still doesn't work right on my network, so I'll lurk in the background to get some hints.
Also you must keep any video streaming devices on the 5 GHz band. Streaming and WiFi printing are not compatible uses for 2.4 GHz WiFi; they will fight to the death for airtime on 2.4 GHz.
I came over to Time Warner from AT&T U-Verse. My UPS has Ethernet connections, for surge protection, rather than cable connections. That was great for AT&T but not so much for Time Warner. I really don't want to buy another UPS as there is nothing wrong with the one I currently have. I was wondering if I would experience any ill effects if I made up some male RJ45 to Female "F" adapters to convert my Ethernet surge protection to cable surge protection.
While I'm pretty good at networking, I'm not quite an expert yet, Therefore if there's something I don't know I'm not afraid to ask. It would be nice if I could find some adapters already made, but the only ones I have found are one piece plastic ones and their size would prevent being able to plug both of them into the UPS. They're right on top of each other. I thought I'd better inquire before I go through the time and trouble of homebrewing them.
You would need to create some kind of smart device to convert the information on those 8 conductors over to two, then convert if back. It would be a challenge, and probably an expensive one.
I'd simply get a new UPS, or some additional siurge protection for your cable drop outside of the ground block provided by TWC. Maybe a power strip w/ COAX connections would suffice. One that I have for my media center has three pairs of COAX connectors.
DON'T DO IT !! You are far better off using just the TWC grounding block. Other external "ground surge protectors" are almost always impemented using imcorrect cable grounding techniques. They quickly become points of ingress that degrade coaxial cable network performance.
If you tried to make your own 'adaptors', I would guess you would have only about 72 hours before TWC disconnected your service because you were causing high levels of internet and TV interference that affected your entire neighborhood.
The cable grounding block must be located within six feet of and connected directly to your electirc service ground, while the protector inside the UPS housing relies on using the third pin of the power cord, which may need over 100 feet of wire to get back to the true electric service ground in your home's circuit breaker box. That length alone can induce surges of several thousand volts on the house grounding wires and into your modem from both the coax cable and modem power supply.