Spectrum will push later firmware version provided by the gateway manufacturer when it fixes a device problem they are experiencing on their network, after they have verified the new code causes no harm to the cable network proper, nor to other subscribers' equipment.
I'm trying to connect my Alexa spot to my Sonos speakers and it seems that they need s seperate channel/address to connect with the Spot, So?
DHCP should do that automaticly.....
If something needs a static IP, you need to buy a seperate router, have the TWC combo stuck into bridged mode by them and manage the router yourself. Spectrum does not manage/support any routing including business class...
I am updating and relocating (I think) my router. Right now I have my modem SB6141, a Linksys ea6900 and 24 port sw. all in one corner of the basement in my 2 story house. Considering, the wi-fi singal really is not that bad !! I would like to move the new router ea9500 to the top of the basement stairs wicth would be very close to center of house . This should give me full bars any place in the house ??
My qustion is what would be better moving my modem with the router or just the router ? If I move both I would need to run 80 ft of rg/6 and 80 ft of cat 6. If I move only the router then 160ft of cat 6 there and back to my sw. The corner they are at now is where the cable sevice enters, thats kinda why I put modem there . I have a vra-900b amp where it comes in the house FWD 52-1002 0db RTN 5-42 0db. right now my signal is Downstream 12dbmv on all 8 channels with 37 and 38 db s/n Upstream 40 and 41 dbmv on the 4 channels. Would I be better with moving both or just one ? Also would a newer or difernt modem be of any help ? To a degree mony is not issue good working network is !!! BTW I only have basic service 24 dl and 2.5 ul runs all the tv's and puters in the house with no issues, most are hard wired with cat 6 just need wi-fi for hand held items .
Thanks for any input and help
Run ethernet and coax, your DS level is too high and could use a little loss
I had to replace my UBEE router/modem combo from Spectrum with an Arris modem and a Sagemcom f@st 5260 router. I got into the settings to try to limit internet access from 12am to 6am. I used the sliders and made them "red" from "0 hr to "6" (in-between 4 and 8 hrs) for all devices. This may have worked, but this evening from about 7-9pm, the devices could not access the internet. I spent time on the phone with Spectrum, but nice as they were, they only had the manual, which doesn't give instructions on how to actually use the controls other than just pointing you in that direction. I had to clear and "allow" all devices, which restored access.
Does anyone know how to implement these parental controls properly? I noticed a "Gateway clock" at the bottom of this window as well -- does this relate to the sliders in any way?
Many thanks in advance for your help!
You have the wrong time zone selected ..
set it for your correct US time zone, it's on GMT-0 right now...
Since you didn't mention specifically where you are located, here's some help:
Eastern = GMT-5
Central = GMT-6
Mountain = GMT-7
Pacific = GMT-8
So when it is midnight in London, it is 5 hours earlier in NYC, which is 7 PM EST.
Currently have a bridged emta phone modem, with ASUS WiFi router. Cable goes from wall, to 3-way splitter. From there, to DVR and emta modem. Open port is terminated.
If I purchase this ASUS modem, do I connect emta to currently terminated port and new modem to WiFi router. Is this correct configuration?
I would put the new modem on the empty -7 port in your case.... You'l also see an US level around +46 which is fine. Levels on the existing EMTA are optimal!
I prefer to see DS levels around +5 rather than the +9 that you'd see on the -3.5 port...
DVR/Cable boxes aren't as critical
I have a D-Link DIR-826L wifi router and am getting slow speeds and frequent disconnections. I've used this in other networks at high speed and without issue - at college, while traveling, friends house - never had a problem. However with Spectrum I usually get less than 1 Mbps, occassionally up to ~2 Mbps. (Am writing this by tethering to my mobile broadband, which is more usable.) When connected to cable directly get ~40 Mbps.
Are there special router settings that Spectrum expects in order to get proper performance? Or are third party routers throttled so that we rent their one?
Tried updating the router firmware to latest version and now getting reliable connection at ~40Mbps!
I currently have a Technicolor TC8717t all-in-one. I live in a small condo and my network isn’t anything special. Just a regular home user. I just want to use the TC8717t for phone and have more control and less hassles with all-in-one.
I’m going to buy this TP-Link AC1350 Wireless Dual Band WiFi router: http://www.tp-link.com/us/products/details/cat-9_Archer-C59.html
A family member has this router, with phone service and she has an older two-story. The range and speeds are excellent throughout her home. I’m thinking for my purposes this one will do just fine, unless someone has a better recommendation at this price range.
What are the steps to properly put the TC8717t into bridged mode and do I connect the new router to the back of one of the four Ethernet ports?
I’m a rookie with this stuff, so go easy. Thanks! :-)
The best way to bridge the existing Technicolor all in one is to call and have them do it for you. This will ensure that you won't be charged the wifi fee (if you're on a Spectrum plan). Then connect the new router to port 1 on the Technicolor.
I've heard great things about the Archer series routers. I don't use it myself but if I were to replace my existing Airport Extreme it would be at the top of the list.
Here's the setup:
I have a Ubee DDW36C (referred to as "modem" here-in) all-in-one. I previously had it in bridge mode using my TP-Link TL-WR1043ND (aka "router") for all my routing functions and it worked gloriously. My only issue is that I have a couple devices that require them to be hardwired. Now, as you might have guessed, I have the modem in a separate room from all the devices. So, hardwiring is a no-go unless I want cables running through my house. My router has the ability to do WDS bridging and as far as I can tell, so does the modem. I followed the instructions here per my router manufacturer and everything looked great as I could see my router in the modem's client list as well as the static IP I assigned it showing in the DHCP tables.
That's about where the troubles start...
I can connect wirelessly to my modem and receive internet signal and even connect to the router's firmware. But when I connected wirelessly or wired through the router, I receive no internet and no IP address. Even with a specified IP address in the correct pool, I'm still not allowed to access anything. I've even enabled/disabled the wireless bridging function in the modem and nothing.
If anyone can shed some light, I'd love to get all this worked out and put behind me.
So, I decided all of this wasn't worth the trouble just for a little efficiency and the extra routing options.
I had an old TP-Link pocket router/repeater that I set into WDS bridge mode and copied the settings as I've done dozens of times before. Picked it up right away. Must be some incompatibility between the WR1043ND and the DDW36C.
Seems you CAN wireless bridge the TWC modem to a 3rd party router.
I'll just use this setup for now, as it's makeshift and I can't stand having the wires setup the way they are.
Thanks for your time.
This is my current setup. There are wires CR1 (cable coming into the apartment from outside), LR1 (Unused coax cable for cable which i no longer have), and BR1 (cable for interenet connection to modem). There is a modem in the bedroom that is connected to a router and the signal isnt strong enough to penetrate the wall to the living room. I would like to put a modem in the livingroom and still have a wired connection in the bedroom for my PC. I cannot use powerline adapters because the outlet in the BR is not on the same circuit as in the LR.
Could I have the -1dB side of the coupler go to a MoCA modem in the LR and have a coax from the modem go to my existing modem (Arris model from Spectrum) and leave the -8dB side of the coupler vacant (it is used for TV/Cable which i do not use). What will I need to do this?
All cables are coaxial labelled "KX3906042 9900963 F6TSVV (ETL)us CATV 18 AWG". I do not know if these are RJ59 or RJ6. anyone know?
Should work, you put a 1 gHz POE filter on the "input" side of the 8 dB directional coupler, the moca adapter on the -8 tap ort and then back at the bedroom, the other moca adapter inline with the modem.
Be sure to put a 75 ohm terminator on the out port of the living room moca box.
8dB of coupler loss and rg59 should not be a problem as moca has quite a strong signal . The POE reflects all that energy back thru the -8 dB directional coupler . It could have really poor response at 1200 mHz and will need to be replaced with a 1500 or 2500 mHz 2 way -3.5 dB splitter.
Confused about MoCa and the WCB6200Q Wireless AC Extender.
I have CableService Internet (Coax) upstairs to a TC8717T Gateway with AC WiFi (provided by Cable Service), which is MoCa 2.0. CableService Coax also goes to my Cable/DVR unit downstairs, with HDMI to my SmartTV. TheSmart TV also has ethernet and WiFi (for Amazon & Netflix & other applications). Today I only use the WiFi:
There is no CAT5/6 in the house, and I can't practically speaking add them.
I want two things:
1. Wired Ethernet backhaul to the TV, and
2. Extended WiFi downstairs and out on the patio.
If I insert a Coax splitter and wire up the WCB6200 downstairs near the Cable/DVR box and run ethernet from the extender to the SmartTV, would this work? And for WiFi, if I use the same SSID and passwords from the Gateway wireless settings (or use the WPS sync, per the WCB6200Q user manual) will the extender wireless connect and work correctly (with coax cable as wired backhaul)? Reminder: the extender is ActionTec and the Gateway is Te
e WiFi.chnicolor. Also the TC8717C has only one Coax connector.
I don't really want to spend the $170 just to hope it "might work".
With a MoCA adapter in line you should be able to connect the WCB6200Q to any available coax outlet. I think in your original post you said that there was a coax outlet near the area you want to place the extender, right? If so, just connect the coax to the extender, then use the ethernet to connect the extender to the smart tv. Pretty sure that should work..